Honoring a holiday tradition
Among the joys of family gatherings throughout the holiday season are those traditional and treasured recipes. Whether remembering the feasts grandma prepared, recreating mom's favorite recipe or simply savoring aromas wafting from the kitchen, we all love this special holiday heritage.
So, this year I want to honor the grandmothers, the mothers and the daughters who so lovingly serve up traditional holiday dishes. (Yes, I know some men are great cooks, but I’m betting the better helf will be in the Barcalounger with a brewski.)
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In Colonial times, our founding fathers were served “receipts.” which involved more than opening a can or popping something into the microwave. Here’s a favorite Christmas receipt from the colony of South Carolina.
From A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: The Receipt Book of Harrison Pinckney Horry, 1770, edited with an introduction by Richard J. Hooker, Columbia, South Carolina, University of South Carolina Press, 1984, p. 46.
How to Dress a Calve’s Head
Boil the head till the Tongue will Peel, then cut half the head into small pieces, about the size of an oyster, then stew it in Strong Gravy, with a large Ladle full of Claret, and a handful of sweet herbs, a little lemon peal, a piece of Onion and Nutmeg. Let all These stew till they are tender. Take the other half of the head and boil it, scratch it across, strew over it grated Bread and sweet herbs with a little lemon Peal: Lard it with Bacon, and wash it over with the Yolks of Eggs, and strew over it a little grated Bread and Place it in the middle of your dish. Then put a pint of strong Gravy into your stew pan with three Anchovies, a few Capers, a good many mushrooms, a good quantity of sweet Butter, and a quart of large Oysters in their own liquor with a Blade of Mace and a little white wine, keep the largest oysters to fry and shred a few of the smallest; then Beat the Yolks of two Eggs and Flour, dip them in and fry them in Hogs Lard, make little Cakes of the Brains and dip them in and fry them, then pour the stew'd meat in the dish with the other half of the head, and lay the fried Oysters, Brains and Tongue, with little bits of crispt bacon, and force meat Balls, on the Top and all about the meat, garnish with horseradish and barberries and serve it hot.
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On holy days and at funeral gatherings, Appalachian women serve this traditional pioneer recipe. This copy is found in Sharyn McCrumb’s “The Rosewood Coffin,” a mystery novel set in modern-day Appalachia. The cook must get out her Holy Bible to find each ingredient.
Scripture Cake
I Kings 4:22 – 4 1/2 cups
Judges 5:25 – 1 cup
Jeremiah 6:20 – 2 cups
I Samuel 30:12 – 2 cups
Nahum 3:12 – 2 cups
Numbers 17:8 – two cups
I Samuel 14: 25 – 2 tablespoons
Leviticus 2:13 – 1/4 teaspoon
Judges 4:19 – 1/2 cup
Amos 4:5 – 2 tablespoons
Jeremiah 17:11 – 6 medium
Since that recipe had no cooking directions, I found an alternative online:
Scripture Cake
1/2 cup butter, Judges 5:25
1 1/2 cups white sugar, Jeremiah 6:20
3 eggs, Isaiah 10:14
2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 Kings 4:22
2 teaspoons baking powder, Luke 13:21
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 Kings 10:10
1 teaspoon ground mace, 1 Kings 10:10
1 teaspoon ground cloves, 1 Kings 10:10
1/2 teaspoon salt, Leviticus 2:13
1/2 cup water, Genesis 43:24
1 tablespoon honey, Proverbs 24:13
1 cup figs, 1 Samuel 30:11
1 cup raisins, 1 Samuel 30:11
1/2 cup almonds, Genesis 43:11
Blend butter, sugar, spices and salt. Beat egg yolks and add. Sift in baking powder and flour, then add water and honey.
Put fruit and nuts through food processor (or chop by hand) and flour well, then fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Fold fruit mixture into flour mixture. Pour into a 9 x 13-inch pan and bake at 350 degrees for one hour.
If you share this recipe, leave off the ingredients as the point is to find them in the scriptures.
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Finally, I share with you my favorite Christmas recipe – Fruitcake Cookies – the most delicious cookie you’ll ever eat! These cookies do not taste like traditional fruitcake, but bake to a crispy golden brown bejeweled with traditional candied fruits. Thanks to my sister, Martha Turner Hanson, for passing along this recipe years ago.
Fruitcake Cookies
1-1/2 sticks margarine
1/2 cup white sugar
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
2 cups unsifted plain flour (flour fruit w/ 1/2 cup of this)
2 eggs
1 tsp. soda (dissolved in small amount of water)
6 tbsp. bourbon whiskey
1 lb. broken pecans
1 lb. chopped dates
4 oz. red candied cherries, cut in pieces
4 oz. green candied cherries, cut in pieces
4 oz. red candied pineapple, cut in pieces
4 oz green candied pineapple, cut in pieces
Cream butter, then stir in each of these ingredients one at a time: add sugars, add half of flour, add 1 egg, add other half of flour, add other egg. Add soda dissolved in water, then whiskey. Pour batter over fruit in very large bowl (I use a big soup pot) . Stir by hand. Mixture is very thick.
Drop by teaspoon onto greased cookie sheet. Bake 20 minutes at 325 degrees. Cookies should be golden brown. Yield: 100
These cookies make wonderful gifts. Be prepared to be asked to make them a holiday tradition!
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Sending lovin’ from the oven! Happy holy days and. in 2012, I wish for you good health and moments of pure and perfect happiness.
B. J. Trotter, Anderson, S.C.
16 Comments:
I've got a Joy Of Cooking from the forties, and I've got to tell you, the Calf's Head recipe isn't much different. Plus, it has humorous asides about the Colored Cook.
Happy Christmas and Merry New Year, BJ. You are an inspiration to all us struggling bloggers.
The fruit cake cookies are truly wonderful. We served these at my daughter's reception at her Christmas wedding. Thanks BJ, they are now a part of our Christmas tradition.
Merry Christmas, BJ! The recipes are a hoot. All but that last one, which I'm making this week along with the gingerbread men...I'll send them all to my daughter and grandsons in San Diego.
Yesterday, I made Pumpkin Gingerbread Fruitcake (my own conglomeration from three different recipes). As I was searching out ingredients at Geezer Lion, a lady who looked about five years older than me stopped me in the aisle and asked excitedly, "You're making fruitcake! That's great! Nobody does that anymore." When I told her I was making Pumpkin Gingerbread Fruitcake, she was struck dumb for a full thirty seconds and just stared at me, like I'd just told her I'd seen the future and it was Barack Obama in 2012 by a landslide. Then she shook her head and walked off, disgusted.
Who knew it was heresy to fool around with fruitcake recipes?
May your holidays be bright.
Hi Everyone: Just thought I’d pop in at this point and tell you how much I’m enjoying your comments.
Jerry Critter is always a sweetie, as are most critters.
Annelle, we won’t say how many years ago I gave you the Fruitcake Cookies recipe, but I’m sure that’s why you’ve put up with me all these years, LOL.
Murr: Hang on to that cookbook, it’s probably a collector’s item.
Nance: I’m available for adoption.
It’s a very scary thing to publish a photo of yourself when you have no idea what you look like now. But, a few trustworthy friends assured me it wasn’t the best picture they’d ever seen of me – or the worst. Thanks to my friend Betty Joe Adkns of Nebraska, who visited with me recently and made the photo.
Thanks to Bill Sumrall, who is always Johnny-on-the-spot when I yell out for proofreading.
I had listened to Cokie Roberts’ book, “Founding Mothers” on tape, and she included the “calve’s head receipt” in the back of the book. I needed a copy, and Leslie Parsley, who has the book, typed it and emailed it to me. She will be surprised to see it here! At least she didn’t ask if I planned to cook it!
A funny story about the cookies. When my sister read me her recipe over the phone, she quoted something parenthetical after the name of the cookies. She was indicating the recipe came from her friend Liz and said, “Liz’s.” I thought she said “Lizzies,” and that’s what I’ve called the cookies ever since. By any name, they’re great!
BJ
Really enjoyed your message, Betty. Have the merriest of Christmases. By the way, I've got a GREAT recipe for corn chowder that is SO easy. And really delicious. I know its not Christmasy, but its something for the cold days AFTER Christmas.
Here it is:
Two cans of cream corn
Two cans of niblet corn
Two quarts of Half and Half
A pound of cooked breakfast sausage dropped in
Two cans of cream of potato soup
(Two small cans of diced green chili if you like green chili -- its a Western thing)
Stir it all together and there you have a delicious soup for cold days.
Amen. And Merry Christmas.
Tim
Ahhh, BJ. Merry Christmas to you and thanks for all these goodies. Still not sure I'd want to get into that Calf's Head - either figuratively or literally! But I have a heck of a recipe for fruitcake - the only one I think is worth a hoot. My mom's. Have been thinking about putting it on my blog but just the word "fruitcake" in the headline would probably chase people away - even my troll. LOL.
B. J. ~ Will pass the recipes on to my husband; he loves to experiment in the kitchen. Not sure he's up to the calf head though. Merry Christmas and, btw, I love your picture!
Since I'm head chef and bottle washer around these parts, I appreciate the recipe list and will let you know how they come out.
Thanks and Merry Christmas, Mother Betty!
Love,
Bill & Kim
What a wonderful holiday message. This year we downsized everything we own to fit in a 5 x 8 U-Haul to make our move to Florida. I made sure my little blue recipe box full of your recipes (a gift from you one Christmas) made the trip. Love you B.j. - Merry Christmas, Jeanette
Boy, if any of you try that “calve’s” head receipt, let us know, LOL. I merely included it and the Scripture Cake to show the work that went into meals prepared by our early settlers. The first line of the 1770 receipt stopped me: boil the head until the tongue peels.” Yummy.
Some of your notes and especially Father Tim’s and Nurt’s remind me that sharing a good recipe is a way of sharing love.
Again, the Fruitcake Cookies do NOT taste like fruitcake. I probably should call them something else so, as Leslie points out, people will not be put off by the mention of fruitcake.
BJ
There's fruitcake and then there's fruitcake, 95% of which are dreadful, so no wonder most people don't like them. My mom's, and subsequently my own, took two plus days just to prepare. Vapors of whiskey and fruit permeated the house from T-giving to Christmas and beyond. People who would turn up their noses at the very idea of eating that stuff usually asked for seconds. There are a lot of tricks to making a good fruitcake and using yellow cake mix ain't one of them.
Oh, I just think people think it’s cool to joke about fruitcakes at Christmas. I can remember my grandmother making them and soaking cloths in bourbon and wrapping the cakes in the cloths and putting them into tins. The liqour served as a preservative, but also enhanced the taste. I love fruitcake, but just wanted to make the distinction that the cookies are light and crispy and delicious, too. I think I’ll change their name to something like Christmas Jewel Cookies or Stained Glass Cookies as people can be very defensive about their fruitcake recipes, LOL. With all the convenience food today (read: yellow cake mix), women just don’t want (or have the time) to make those elaborate productions we remember. ‘Tis a pity.
BJ:
i LOVE that receipt for baking your Calves Head holiday dish. forwarded your link to bunch of southern writer pals of mine. they will get a honk out of it, too. this is a bunch of mostly book writers drug up by a gal named Shari Smith in Claremont, NC. i will dig up her blog address. you would love some of her columns about that little town and the folks in it.....
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.
We need to get you a new hat.
Thanks BJ. You brought back many good memories. I haven't made the fruit cake cookies in years but might have to give them a go this year. Love, Lynn
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